- European low-cost giant Ryanair is infamously known for its no-frills product and expensive added fees.
- The carrier is consistently named one of the world's worst airlines but continues to carry millions of passengers a year.
- I flew on Ryanair from London to Stockholm to see if I could handle its strict rules — here's what it was like.
Ireland-based Ryanair is the largest airline in Europe, carrying some 15.8 million passengers in July 2022 and beating its pre-pandemic record of 14.9 million carried in August 2019.
Source: Reuters
The Boeing 737 family, including the unique 737 MAX 8200, is the workhorse of Ryanair's fleet.
Source: Ryanair
Ryanair was the first airline to fly the special Boeing 737 MAX 8200, which the carrier has dubbed "Gamechanger." The carrier has 210 on order.
Source: Ryanair
The 737 MAX 8200 is a modified version of the 737 MAX 8 that can fit 197 seats — eight more than the carrier's 737-800, which has 189 seats.
Source: Ryanair
While Ryanair was just a single airline in 2018, it was grown into five as of 2022. The carrier's four subsidiaries include Buzz, Malta Air, Lauda Europe, and Ryanair UK.
Source: Ryanair
Although Ryanair is a mega-carrier that has become a household name, it is also infamously known for its bare-bones product. Over the years, the low-cost giant has earned the title of being one of the worst airlines in Europe.
Airline complaint agency Aviation ADR received over 14,000 complaints about Ryanair in 2018, resulting in more than £2,601,618 in payouts to customers.
Source: Which?
The reputation continued after the height of the pandemic when Which? asked consumers which airline they would never fly with again, and 75% said Ryanair. In 2022, the carrier still sat at the bottom of the company's list of worst airlines.
Source: Which?
After a complicated airport experience and a short departure delay, the $84 last-minute ticket was worth the hassle. Here's what it was like flying on Ryanair from London to Stockholm.
My journey started at London Stansted Airport at 5:30 a.m. for my 8:25 a.m. departure. Stansted is London's fourth-largest airport and Ryanair's biggest hub.
Source: World Data
I set an alarm to check in 24 hours before my flight so I didn't miss the online check-in window. According to Ryanair, passengers that do not check in within two hours of the scheduled departure time, a fee of £/€55 per passenger will be charged at the airport ticket counter.
Moreover, a fee of £/€20 per passenger will be charged for those that check in online but do not print their boarding pass.
Source: Ryanair
However, EU/EEA/UK nationals can access their boarding pass on the airline's mobile app free of charge, though a few airports don't accept these yet.
Source: Ryanair
These are just a few of the several rules I had to remember before I even got to the airport.
When I checked in, I couldn't get a boarding pass on the mobile app because I am a US citizen. Instead, I was required to print a page and present it at the airport for a "visa check."
Getting to the visa check desk at Stansted airport was a two-step process. First, I had to find section "F" and get in a long, snaking line that led to self-serve bag drop kiosks. The wait was about 20 minutes.
The kiosks, which were first launched at Stansted in 2008, can be used by those carrying an EU/EEA passport and need to check their bags.
Source: Business Traveller
Everyone else is directed to a second line specifically for visa checks. This queue took another 20 minutes.
Other budget carriers like EasyJet and Wizz Air do not do this, nor do many mainline carriers like Air Canada.
Source: The Points Guy
The agent scanned my passport and issued my boarding pass. Fortunately, I pre-booked a carry-on and didn't need to check a bag, but those that did can check their luggage here.
According to Ryanair's website, one extra cabin bag starts at €/£6, while 10kg and 20kg checked bags start at €/£12 and €/£21, respectively, when booked in advance. My pre-purchased carry-on cost $26 at the time of booking.
However, at the airport, it can cost up to €69, per Ryanair. Always pre-book your bags when flying Ryanair or its partners, either at booking or during check-in, because the rules are strict, and you will end up paying a lot more otherwise.
Source: Ryanair
About 45 minutes after arriving at Stansted, I headed to security. Unlike in the US, many European airports require passengers to fit all their carry-on liquids in a one-liter baggie. Knowing this going in, I brought my own, but agents can provide them as well.
Security took about 25 minutes and neither of my bags needed a second check, so I was off to my gate.
However, gate information was not available until 7:35 a.m., so I waited about 25 minutes before Gate 30 populated on the departures board.
On the way to the gate, I had to pass through a large duty-free area and food court…
…ride a train two stops…
…and walk down a few long corridors. The journey can vary from 10-25 minutes from security to the gates, so plan accordingly.
After about two hours after arriving at the airport, I made it to my gate just in time to board. I lined up in the priority lane because my pre-purchased carry-on came with the perk.
Ryanair has a bag size check at the desk that outlines the allowed dimensions for both items. Fortunately, mine just barely fit, and the gate agent scanned my boarding pass and sent me on my way.
To save on airport fees, Ryanair doesn't always use a jetbridge. So, instead of boarding directly from the gate and onto the plane, passengers had to take an escalator downstairs…
…walk through three hallways…
…and descend a flight of stairs before finally making it out onto the ramp.
When I walked out onto the ramp, I noticed I was not actually boarding a Ryanair 737 but instead a Lauda A320. Both aircraft are configured in an all-economy 3x3 layout.
While I was on a different plane than a typical Ryanair flight, the rules and requirements regarding bags and check-in, among others, are the same.
To board, passengers ascended two sets of airstairs, one via the forward door…
…and one via the aft door.
Because I had a carry-on, I was one of the first in the long line to the ramp to board. I was randomly assigned seat 7E at check-in, which was a middle seat towards the front of the plane.
But, I could have pre-selected my seat for a fee. The options ranged from $7-$15 depending on the location of the seat and legroom, but I was fine with whichever seat for the short two-hour flight.
If you do take the gamble on a random seat and get one you don't want, you can still pay for a different one after check-in.
Onboard, the A320 was very basic, and the slim grey seats reminded me of Spirit Airlines or Frontier Airlines in the US.
However, unlike Ryanair's notoriously cramped Boeing 737 jet with standard seats offering just 30-inches of pitch and 17 inches of width, Lauda's A320 was more spacious.
Source: SeatGuru
The roomier plane offers 32 inches of pitch and 17.3 inches of width. Being just 5'3" and on the small side, I had plenty of legroom and seat space on the Lauda plane.
Source: Simple Flying
There are extra legroom seats available on both Ryanair and Lauda, so I recommend taller passengers upgrade if it's in the budget.
The man sitting in the aisle seat next to me was tall and could not fit his legs into the space. He had to pretzel himself into the seat to fit, which did not look comfortable.
While the legroom could be a hit or miss depending on the traveler's size, the seat does offer come with a few features, including a large seatback pocket…
…and a tray table that could easily fit my laptop.
The tray table was about the same size as typically offered on Ryanair jets, but the seatback pocket was a bonus. Since 2004, the company has removed seatback pockets from all of its planes to "save time on cleaning costs."
Source: The Telegraph
But, there were no power ports, inflight WiFi, seatback screens, or a headrest.
The seat did recline, however, which was a pleasant surprise.
Moreover, my carry-on easily fit into the medium-sized overhead bin.
About 30 minutes into the journey, the flight attendants came through with for-purchase drinks and snacks, like alcohol, water, soda, paninis, and Pringles. Nothing was complimentary.
I ordered Pringles and coffee for €5.85. The coffee was burnt, but the chips curbed my hunger until lunch. Next time I'll bring my own food and drinks.
After the service, I visited the lavatory, which was spacious, and listened to a podcast before landing in Stockholm.
When deplaning, we used a jet bridge, so being seated towards the front of the plane meant I was quickly off and on my way.
Overall, the experience was perfectly fine for the price. The seats were hard but bearable for a couple of hours, and I didn't feel cramped.
I also made sure to pre-download a few podcasts to entertain me during the flight. Ryanair and its subsidiaries' lack of amenities could leave customers very bored if they don't come prepared.
While the flight was smooth, the most stressful part was ensuring I followed all of the rules because one misstep can be very costly, especially for budget travelers.
I actually spent more time waiting in lines and traversing the airport than I did on the plane, but you get what you pay for when flying low-cost instead of full-service.
If you are trying to decide whether or not to fly Ryanair, I think it's worth it for flights under two or so hours, especially if you end up on a Lauda or Buzz-branded plane.
Make sure you add up the costs of bags and seats before booking to ensure it's still cheaper than other all-inclusive options.
Then, do your research. Learn the rules of flying the carrier so you are not surprised at the airport when you're charged a crazy fee for something you could have pre-booked for cheaper, or done for completely free, like simply checking in online.
Taylor Rains
Junior Reporter, Aviation/Airlines
Taylor is a Junior Reporter on the Business News desk with a particular focus on aviation and airlines. Before joining Insider, Taylor worked for several companies in the aviation industry, including Southwest and Allegiant. She got her start in journalism in 2019 when she began writing for FlyerTalk but most recently served as a reporter for AirlineGeeks. Taylor received her B.S. in Aviation Management from Florida Institute of Technology and is passionate about airplanes and travel. Her favorite countries to visit are the Netherlands and Scotland. You can follow Taylor on Twitter and Instagram (@trains_onplanes). She can be reached at [email protected].
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